NOTES FROM LISBON

I went to Portugal for my first time last year. Even though it had been on my travel list for a while, I knew very little about the various locations I should visit. Based on my research, I developed a three-week itinerary covering the areas that sounded most appealing to me. Once I narrowed down the stops—Lisbon, Sintra, Comporta, Alentejo, Douro Valley and Porto—I really dug into the logistics, hotels, activities and vibe of each place to determine how many nights in each. I also reached out to you via Instagram and your recommendations helped me complete the picture of the trip.

This is the first part of my Portugal Guide. In each destination, I named the hotel I selected to stay, along with a few of the top recommendations up for consideration. Some locations had lots of options, while others were hotel-focused destinations in themselves. With a few exceptions, I didn’t touch any of the large hotel chains. My personal preference is always a boutique property or one with historical weight.

I’m sharing the shops and restaurants I personally visited along with recommendations from locals. The shops are organized by the types of places selling goods I like to source—artisan pieces, antiques, locally made items. For restaurants, the list was too extensive, so I’m only mentioning where I actually dined and a few standout local recommendations.

LISBON
Where I Stayed – Palácio Príncipe Real

I loved the location away from the crowds in a beautiful residential area. Hidden behind large doors accessible only to guests, you enter through the garden to reach the reception, restaurant, bar and lounge. The personal service throughout our stay was exceptional – from welcoming us with drinks and nibbles at check-in to arranging dinner reservations and tours. I appreciated them accommodating my specific room request: the blue tile room, previously part of the original kitchen. The property felt like a stylish retreat from the Lisbon crowds.

• I also considered The Ivens, Bairro Alto, and Palacio Ludovice, but after briefly viewing them, I was thrilled with my decision to stay at Palácio Príncipe Real.

EAT:

The restaurant recommendations below came from the team at Palácio Príncipe Real, who graciously shared their favorite neighborhood spots:

• Zazah – Local and Mediterranean cuisine (just up the road from Palácio Príncipe Real). We had a great meal here.
• Tapisco – Portuguese petiscos meets Spanish tapas (just up the road). Highly recommend.
• Rosamar – Seafood grill and oyster bar (10 minutes walking from the hotel)
• Sea Me – Seafood, fish, and sushi bar described as a “modern fish market.” DJs and live music on weekend nights
• Pica Pau – Traditional Portuguese food (just up the road)
• Mercearia do Século – Home-style bistro tucked away on a residential side street. Fresh, healthy, organic Portuguese food (5 minutes walking from the hotel)
• BouBou’s – Portuguese cuisine with French and Asian influences (5 minute walk from the hotel)
• JNcQUOI Avenida – Upscale restaurant serving Portuguese dishes and international favorites with seasonal ingredients

SHOP:

I’ve organized shopping by type of merchandise, focusing on made-in-Portugal products. It’s always hit or miss relying on others’ recommendations, but I look at the journey as a way to explore. I walk everywhere, so the route from A to B inevitably reveals all sorts of unexpected interesting things. I love popping into quiet little galleries or shops, some looking untouched for months, to get a read on locals’ interests. Some of the antique stores were for serious collectors, while others were dusty consignment stores not worthy of mention. Unfortunately, many of the popular shops on my list turned out to be unoriginal, selling similar products teetering on predictable souvenirs I’d see in several places.